In search of sustainable pigments that make a difference
Colour is everywhere: from food to textiles, from cosmetics to design. Nevertheless, the dye industry is at a tipping point. The sector causes a significant ecological burden through pigment production. That is why POM Limburg and its partners organized the Captain’s Table “Colour – Seeing Beyond Pigment” at Z33, the House for Contemporary Art, Design and Architecture. Participants explored the challenge of scaling sustainable alternatives into economically viable solutions.
POM Limburg’s Captain’s Table brought together a diverse group of participants, including entrepreneurs, designers, and researchers. They explored the economic opportunities presented by the rise of bio-based and structural colours. The conversation was inspired by insights from the exhibition “Colour – Seeing Beyond Pigment” at Z33 in Hasselt. This exhibition runs until August 24, 2025, and showcases experimental applications of colour derived from microalgae, bacteria, and synthetic nanostructures.
Added Value Through Colour
While bio-based pigments offer many opportunities, they still face several challenges and obstacles, such as colour stability, UV sensitivity, and batch variation. From an economic perspective, the full life cycle is crucial: pigments that age quickly or need frequent replacement are not necessarily more sustainable. Furthermore, the market does not ask for “sustainable ink” but for a functional end product in which sustainability is integrated. Innovations in colour must create added value, such as through reusability or aesthetics. Durability, brand perception, and material performance are also key factors. At the same time, Europe’s strong dependence on Asian pigment production makes it vulnerable. This creates opportunities for local production of bio-based pigments, provided there is sufficient support and collaboration.
Collaboration Plays a Key Role
Concerns about intellectual property (IP) and production sensitivities complicate collaboration. Companies need trusted testing environments, guidance on IP matters, and clear collaboration models. The Flemish Agency for Innovation and Entrepreneurship (VLAIO) and spearhead cluster Catalisti can play a facilitating role here. In terms of raising awareness, there is still much potential for growth by working with designers and craftspeople to reflect on the impact of pigment choices on sustainability and customer perception. All of this underscores that the future of colour is not only aesthetic but also strategically and economically relevant, as became clear during the Captain’s Table. Sustainable innovation is not a solo journey but a shared quest for impactful change.
This initiative was supported by POM Limburg, VLAIO, LUCA School of Arts, Z33, and C-mine.
